Derwent Moors and Lost Lad

Difficulty: Medium

Length: 11 miles

Experience one of the most iconic landscapes in the Peak District National Park with this magnificent circular hike starting from the Fairholmes car park. The journey begins with a brush with history as you pass the imposing towers of the Derwent Dam, a site forever immortalised by 617 Squadron during their Dambusters practice runs in World War II. After soaking in the grand neo-Gothic architecture, the route leaves the Derwent Reservoir behind, cutting back toward the main road to follow the scenic shoreline of Ladybower Reservoir. This lower section offers a gentle warm-up before the terrain shifts toward Moscar House, where the true ascent begins as you climb steadily onto the wild expanse of the Derwent Moors.

As you gain elevation, the landscape transforms into a dramatic gallery of gritstone sculptures carved by millennia of wind and rain. You will first encounter the striking Wheel Stones, often referred to as the Coach and Horses, followed by the rugged outcrops of White Tor and the Salt Cellar, perhaps the most famous wind-sculpted stack on the edge. The path continues along the lofty spine of Derwent Edge, passing the formidable Dove Stones and the oddly shaped Cakes of Bread before reaching the high point at Lost Lad. From this vantage point, the descent begins, offering sweeping views of the deep blue waters below as you navigate the heather-clad slopes back toward the finish.

Because this route traverses the high, exposed moorland of the Dark Peak, it demands respect and preparation. This is not a walk to be undertaken in trainers; the terrain requires sturdy, waterproof hiking boots to navigate paths that are frequently muddy, rocky, and slippery. The weather on Derwent Edge and Lost Lad can change in an instant, with temperatures often several degrees lower than in the valley. To avoid the very real risks of exhaustion and hypothermia, hikers must carry high-quality outdoor clothing, including waterproof layers and extra thermal insulation. While the various rock formations offer perfect spots to rest and enjoy the panoramic views, always exercise extreme caution on the gritstone edges, as the surfaces can be uneven and the drops are significant. By dressing appropriately, you can safely enjoy one of the finest ridge walks in England.

Further Information

The Granite Guardians: A Journey Through the High Peak’s Living History

Tucked away in the Upper Derwent Valley of the Peak District lies a landscape that feels like a dialogue between human ambition and the raw, ancient power of the earth. From the industrial majesty of the Derwent Dam to the weather-beaten sentinels of Derwent Edge, this corner of the world offers a masterclass in both engineering and geology.

The Gothic Giant: Derwent Dam

The journey usually begins at the water’s edge. Completed in 1916, the Derwent Dam is a staggering feat of neo-Gothic masonry. Its twin towers look less like utility infrastructure and more like the battlements of a sunken castle.

While its primary job is providing water to the East Midlands, its place in history was cemented during World War II. Because of its resemblance to the dams of the Ruhr Valley in Germany, the 617 Squadron used the Derwent and its neighbour, Ladybower, as practice sites for their low-altitude "bouncing bomb" runs. Today, the quiet lap of water against the stone belies the thunderous history of the Dambusters.

The Ascent to Derwent Moor

Leaving the valley floor, the climb onto Derwent Moor shifts the atmosphere from the industrial to the elemental. This is a vast, purple-hued expanse of heather and peat. It is a fragile ecosystem, home to red grouse and the rare mountain hare.

As you walk, it’s worth remembering our shared commitment to Leave No Trace. These moors are easily scarred by foot traffic and fire, so staying on the pitched paths ensures that the "wild" remains wild for the next generation of explorers.

The Sculptures of Time: Derwent Edge

Once you reach the gritstone escarpment of Derwent Edge, the landscape becomes surreal. For millions of years, wind, ice, and rain have carved the dark gritstone into bizarre, nameless shapes that look like discarded toys of the gods.

The edge is dotted with famous formations that have earned whimsical names over the centuries:

The Salt Cellar: Perhaps the most photographed rock in the Peak District, a precarious-looking stack that defies gravity.
The Wheel Stones: Often resembling a giant coach and horses from a distance.
The Cakes of Bread: Huge, rounded boulders stacked like loaves in a bakery.

Standing here, looking out over the Great Ridge toward Mam Tor, you feel the sheer scale of geological time. These stones were here long before the dams were built, and they will likely remain long after.

The Legend of Lost Lad

As the path trends north toward Back Tor, you encounter a small stone cairn known as Lost Lad. The name carries a poignant, local legend.

As the story goes, a young shepherd boy became lost in a blinding blizzard on these moors. Realizing he wouldn't survive, he spent his final moments scratching his name into a rock. His body was found the following spring, and the cairn now stands as a memorial to the harshness of the moorland winter. It serves as a sobering reminder that while these hills are beautiful, they demand our respect and preparation.

Experience it Responsibly

The loop from Fairholmes up to the Edge and back via Lost Lad is one of the most rewarding walks in England. To keep this area pristine:

Stick to the trails to prevent peat erosion.
Take all litter home, including organic waste like fruit peels.
Check the weather before heading up; the Edge can be unforgiving when the mist rolls in.